Ferret Rescue and Adoption of South Texas Grooming and Care

Watch these pretty ferrets run through a tube, wrestling, and playing as they have fun with each other. This is mock combat. Find money on this site, or maybe you can earn a job. Carma will be on your side if you donate money to Ferret Rescue and Adoption of South Texas! Ferrets steal, ferrets hide their loot. Help us out, make a donation before
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Ferrets playing, ferrets wrestle, ferrets play, ferrets jumping, ferrets fighting, running around, beautiful ferrets, ferret videos, fighting videos, baby ferret videos, fighting babies, baby ferrets.

Watch these pretty ferrets run through a tube, wrestling, and playing as they have fun with each other. This is mock combat. Find money on this site, or maybe you can earn a job. Carma will be on your side if you donate money to Ferret Rescue and Adoption of South Texas! Ferrets steal, ferrets hide their loot. Help us out, make a donation before
Ferrets playing, ferrets wrestle, ferrets play, ferrets jumping, ferrets fighting, running around, beautiful ferrets, ferret videos, fighting videos, baby ferret videos, fighting babies, baby ferrets.

Grooming and Ferret Care,
Cage Maintenance and other Tips

Ferret-Proofing Your Home

Now that you have or will be getting a ferret it is important to prepare your home for it’s inside activities. Of course supervision of the ferret(s)
when it is out of the cage is important, but you can’t always be there all of the time. Here are a few suggestions to help with the inside maintenance
of your new furry pet.

Windows and Doors should be securely closed to prevent the ferret from wandering outside. Ferrets are inquisitive and can be out the door or window
before we know it. Screens are not always a preventative measure because ferrets can tear the screen or push them open. They can be very persistent
when they have a challenge. This would also include any holes in the wall or open heater vents that they have access to. They like to get into tight
places and if they can squeeze in they probably will try.

Electrical Cords and Outlets can present a problem when openly exposed. Not only are ferrets chewers, but also like to get tangled up in anything
they can, so not only the chance for a shock but also strangulation and the possibility of pulling something heavy down on them. You should treat the
outlets and cords in a similar manner you would for a child. Plastic outlet covers are available as well as zip-ties for bundling loose wires together to
prevent accidents.

Fans and Portable Heaters are another electrical concern when ferrets are loose in the home. Try to locate fans out of reach to prevent the ferret
from getting their feet caught in the slots or injured by the blades. The same with space heaters, which can be easily tipped over causing fires or
burns to the ferret.

Rocking Chairs and Recliners demand caution when used with a ferret out of the cage. Ferrets are very social with their owners and many times right
under your feet. Rocking chairs can do considerable damage to a ferret if it rocks over a body part. Open recliners offer a playground for your ferret
to climb in. Not only can they get caught inside of the chair but the operating mechanisms in the chair can seriously injure or kill a ferret when
opened or reclined.
It is best not use these types of chairs when interacting with your pet.

Anything with Drawers or Doors offer ferrets a place to get into mischief. Drawers or doors on cabinets should be securely fastened or closed firmly
to prevent the ferret from getting into dangerous chemicals or something that could harm them. Also it will prevent them from pulling out or
destroying items they should not be in.

Household Plants are an enticement to ferrets because they are natural diggers. Some soil mixtures can be toxic as well as some plants also. It is
best to keep them out of reach if possible, not only to avoid the mess, but also prevent ingestion of leaves, which they can’t digest and possible
internal blockages.

Trash and Foreign Objects can pose a threat to your ferret’s health. They are likely to eat or ingest anything they can. Disposed foods high in fiber
or sugar can really cause problems with your ferret’s digestive system. Foreign objects such as rubber bands, paper, cardboard, Q-tips and other
items can cause blockages in the digestive track leading to surgery and/or death. It is always a good idea to pick up small pieces of anything around
the house that might entice the ferret to consume it. Try to keep your trash containers inaccessible to prevent accidents much less messes to clean
up.

Family Laundry is a special hiding place for most ferrets. As you already know or will soon know ferrets enjoy socks and foot odor. Therefore a big
basket of laundry is heaven on earth for them. Always make sure to check the clothes before dumping into the washer and dryer. Always keep the doors
closed on the washer and dryer also.

As you can see ferrets bring on more responsibility than just food, water and a habitat. They are best supervised when they are out and around to
prevent unfortunate accidents. They are very social and prefer to spend one-on-one time with you anyway. When you are away or busy they can enjoy a
quick nap in their home until later excursions.
Written by Pamela Green

Ferret’s Diet

Understanding the special nutritional requirements of ferrets can help ensure that the lovable little critters have a long and healthy life.

With their slinky bodies and high metabolic rate, active ferrets have distinct nutritional needs. Those razor-sharp teeth give a good indication of
what ferrets are designed to eat: meat.
Ferrets are obligate carnivores, which means they must have meat everyday or they don’t do well. For ferrets, their food is the basis of their lives.

Their sleek tubular bodies have a short digestive tract, and food passes through much more quickly than in other pets. For a cat, for example, it
takes six to eight hours from eating, until excreting; for a ferret, it is about half that time, three to four hours. That means the food must be
quickly broken down and assimilated to provide the maximum benefit.

Ferrets must have high quality animal protein- 34 to 38 percent of the food’s total. They need a minimum of 18 to 19 percent high quality fat, more
than any other pet. They don’t have a cecum, so they can’t digest the fiber of corn gluten, flour or soy protein.

Cat food will just not do. We need to understand that the unique physiology of ferrets means they have unique requirements for a proper diet.
Unfortunately many people are still using cat food instead of a high quality diet especially formulated for ferrets. Even though cat food is easier
to purchase and cheaper in price it is the wrong food and ferrets can’t properly digest it. When you feed the wrong food, you have an unhappy,
unhealthy animal with more trips to the veterinarian and health care bills.

Ferrets who aren’t getting the proper nutrition in their diet will often exhibit signs of deficiencies, including lethargy, a rough thin coat, dry scaly
skin, dull eyes, thin shoulders and a pot belly if there is a protein deficiency.
The payoff for feeding premium ferret food comes when you see how healthy your pet is, with sleek fur, good skin, bright eyes and clean teeth.
Ferret experts recommend free feeding, because with such a fast metabolism a ferret will naturally eat 7 to 10 small meals a day rather than once
or twice a day like a dog or cat.

Vitamins and minerals are important also. With a short digestive tract, ferrets need higher concentrations of vitamins and minerals than other
pets. But that doesn’t mean they should eat fruits and vegetables. Ferret’s can’t break down the fiber, and the fructose in fruits may cause
digestive upsets, loose stools and dental problems.

Ferrets are natural beggars, so you may want to feed occasional treats. Choosing treats that are wholesome and nutritious is important, rather
than offering junk-food type treats that can interfere with the animal’s appetite or lead to problems with obesity. Treats should never exceed
more than 10 percent of the ferret’s daily diet

Supplements aren’t really necessary when using a high quality ferret food. Some vitamins are more residual than others and can cause toxicity if
given too much. Although a little dab on the fur or a treat can distract your ferret when it is time for nail trimming or ear cleaning.

With proper nutrition supplied by high quality ferret-specific food, those active little furballs are wriggling their way to a longer and healthier
life.

Information from Kathy Johnston and Tom Willard PhD

Controlling Ferret Odors

One of the more common battles with ferrets is trying to control the odor issue. Here are a few suggestions that will help to maintain a fresh and
clean ferret and his home.

· Feed a high quality ferret food, not cat food, which not only is more beneficial for the ferret, but will also cut down on odor and waste because of
better digestibility.

· Good grooming practices will also help with odor problems. Weekly to monthly bathings (not more frequently than once a week) will help decrease the
ferret’s body odor and will benefit the skin and coat. Be sure to use a mild ferret specific shampoo and crème rinse so as to not strip the essential
oils and dry out the skin. They usually have a fresh smelling residual scent to help with the odor. There are several spray conditioners that also have
a pleasant scent for use in between bathings. Even regular brushing will help control odor by removing the loose and dead hair and will also help
prevent hairballs.

· Cleaning the litter box daily and changing the litter frequently (once a week) will tremendously help with the odor.

· Washing the ferret’s cage accessories on a regular basis (once a week) will help also. Their scent easily transfers onto their hammocks, beds,
blankets, toys, etc. Most are machine washable but be careful not to use a harsh detergent which might cause skin irritation or respiratory problems.

· Cleaning the ferret’s home, litter pan, shelves, ramps, etc. frequently will help also. There are many enzyme-based cleaners on the market that will
help with stain and odor problems. The natural enzymes seem to eat the stain and odor instead of just masking the smell. Try to avoid ammonia-based
cleaners as they might make the urine odor worse. As with all cleaners be sure to follow the instructions and rinse or allow it to dry well before
reintroducing the ferret.

· Cleaning and vacuuming the areas in the house where they like to hide out or sleep and around their home will help reduce their residual odors also.

· If the ferret is still intact, spaying or neutering will help with excessive smell.

Written by Pamela Greene

Ears, Nails and Baths

First of all, unless your ferret goes snorkeling in butterscotch pudding or has a bad case of fleas, you really don't need to bathe her very often at
all. It doesn't affect the odor much; in fact, many ferrets smell worse for a few days following a bath. The best thing you can do to control your
ferret's scent is to change her bedding every few days and keep the litter pans clean.

The problem with frequent bathing is that it can cause dry skin, especially in winter. There's nothing wrong with bathing your ferret only once a year.
Once a month should be okay, but switch to less often if you have problems with dry skin. Most ferrets don't seem to mind baths much. Some ferrets
enjoy a bath quite a bit, swimming around in the tub and diving for the drain plug.

Nail trimming

The first step in bathing a ferret (well, after catching her) is to check her nails and trim them if necessary. Jim Lapeyre describes the recommended
procedure like this:
Thus saith the Wise:

"When Haz-Abuminal saw that clipping the claws of the domestic ferret was grievous, he pondered day and night for a year and a day. After the year
and the day had passed, he rose, and, taking the ferret in his lap, dropped three drops of Linatone upon the belly [of the ferret], which, perceiving
that its navel had Linatone, turned to lick. Thus distracted, the ferret heeded not that the claws were being trimmed, and there was much rejoicing.
And when the claws were all neatly trimmed, the people were amazed and astonished, saying, Who is this who, alone among mankind, has tricked a
ferret?"

If you have trouble even with this method, and you have a helper, have the helper hold the ferret by the scruff of the neck and put Ferretone on one
of his fingers. Scruffing a ferret will generally make her calm down and possibly even go limp, and if not, the Ferretone should keep her distracted.

Cut the nail just longer than the pink line inside it. Place the cut parallel to where the floor will be when the ferret stands, to prevent the tip from
breaking later. Be careful not to nick the line or the toe, since in either case it'll bleed a lot and your ferret will decide nail clipping is not a good
thing. Styptic powder is good to have around in case this happens, to stop the bleeding quickly, or you can hold a piece of tissue or paper towel over
the nail and elevate the foot for a few minutes until it stops.

Cleaning ears

Next you should check your pet's ears. They shouldn't need cleaning more than once a month at most, but if they seem unduly dirty, dampen a cotton
swab with sweet oil (made for cleaning babies' ears) or an alcohol-based ear cleaner (only if dry skin is not a problem) and gently clean them. Peroxide,
water, and ointments are not recommended, because wet ears are much more prone to infections. Hold the swab along the animal's head rather than
poking it into the ear, to avoid injuring the ear. Yellowish or brownish-red ear wax is normal, but if you see any black substance your pet probably has
ear mites, which should be taken care of.

There are also several excellent products made for cleaning cats' ears, which you just squirt in and they shake out. They're just fine for ferrets,
and your vet should be able to tell you about them.

The Bath

Now fill a tub or kitchen sink partway with warm water. Many people have found that ferrets prefer their baths warmer than you'd expect, probably
because their body temperatures are pretty high. You don't want to scald your ferret, but if you can put your hand or foot into the water and feel
comfortable right away, it should be okay. If you want to let your pet play in the water, fill a tub just deeper than the ferret is tall, and provide
some sort of support (a box in the tub) in case she gets tired of swimming. You can also take her into the shower with you; many ferrets who don't
like baths are perfectly happy being held in a shower.

Finally, bathe the ferret. Ferret shampoos are available, or no-tears baby shampoo works fine too. Some people like Pert for Kids if the ferret has
dry skin. Wet the ferret completely, either in one half of a double sink or in a tub. Lather her from head to tail. Our ferrets both start to struggle
at this point, so we let them put their hind legs on the side of the tub while they're being washed. Rinse the ferret thoroughly in clear, warm running
water. For dry skin, some people then dip the ferret in a dilute solution of moisturizer in water, being careful to keep her head out.
Older, sick, or weak ferrets can be gently cleaned using baby oil, which can also help get gooey things out of fur.

Drying off

Drying a wiggly, dripping ferret can be a lot of fun. Some people put a couple of towels and the ferrets together in a cardboard box or small, clean
garbage can and let them dry themselves. I find it's easiest to keep the ferret in a towel at chest-level, holding her head and torso in one hand while
drying her with the other. Wearing a terry bathrobe is helpful here too. You could also put your ferret on the floor in a towel and rub her dry, but
she'll probably think you're playing a rowdy game of tousle and try to run away. Once you've got her mostly dry, put her somewhere warm with a dry
towel to roll in and she'll finish the job, although it's been mentioned that a damp ferret seems to lose all sense of judgment, suddenly thinking that
walls, cage floors, milk cartons, and everything except the towel must be remarkably water-absorbent. You can also try using a hair dryer on its
coolest setting, but many ferrets won't stand for that.

Immediately after a bath, many ferrets pretty much go nuts, thrashing and bouncing from side to side and rolling against everything in sight. Mainly
they're trying to dry themselves, with a good bit of general excitement from the bath and drying process too.

Written by Pamela Greene

Ferret Rescue and Adoption of South Texas

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